Bison bison bison bison

Why so many bison? Because there were babies! Squeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! And you know how much I like animals, so this was the best. Of course, most of us know what a bison looks like, so it may be difficult to imagine their calves are cute. But here you see they are.





And at some point, they quit looking like fuzzy little caramel lambs and assume their adult conformation, and you’d better respect them, but when they are calves, forget it. You just want to cuddle them all up.

Presumably the deer and antelope also had babies, but not as recently, so that you really couldn’t tell them from the adults anymore. They weren’t as placid about our presence, although we didn’t seem to bother them much, either. They would bound across the road and regroup right next to the car, then move on.





Bison, on the other hand, will stand there cropping and pooping indefinitely, which is why we have lots more pictures, close up of bison, than antelope and deer and prairie dogs. By the way, be sure to click on these photos to enlarge them, and then scroll around. There's a lot more to see than in the smaller picture.

One reason we got to see so many animals is, we waited. If we saw a pullout, we parked and shut off the engine. Within a few minutes, we'd see animals in the treeline, and then they'd come out and go about their business. And sometimes, when they'd congregate on the road, we'd just stop and wait. I mean, hello! It's a wildlife loop. What are you doing there if you don't want to dawdle along and gawk at animals? In a hurry? Take a main road. We suspect some of the people who blew their horns and swerved crazily around us and the wildlife were the same kind of people who have to have the whole pool for themselves and their spawn 24/7. Anyway, their loss if they can't take the time to enjoy nature's gifts.

There are actually some animals in Custer State Park even more gregarious than bison, and those are the burros. They are pretty much wild now, but they are descended from the burros who used to work in the park, hauling visitors up a mountain to see the view. A paved road put an end to that, and the burros were turned loose, and that’s a pretty good life for them. They have no fear of people, and will stick their heads right in your car windows.






We had two at once, and Stella took quite an exception to this, screaming bloody murder from the back of the van, from which she could see, hear and smell them quite well. The burros have heard it all before, and continued their investigation undisturbed by her yowling. We didn’t feed them, but learned they will eat pretty much anything, including pizza. Vegetables are recommended by the park rangers, and you can pet them, too. We saw two pregnant mares and a couple of little ones we assumed were on the young side, and they are all just adorable and tame as can be. If you get there, take some carrots along and make friends.

Home on the range

At last! The fog lifts enough for us to see some distance, so we head back to Custer State Park, but not before breakfast sandwiches at Subway. You may wonder why not eat the “complimentary” continental breakfast at Super 8. Because they stop serving it at 9 AM! Hello! No one comes to Custer who isn’t on vacation. We’re not getting up early. So we never actually ate there, although we customarily do take advantage of the included (Who do they think they’re fooling? You pay!) breakfast.

Never mind. We have to stop talking about rotten hotels and crappy people and get to the point of this trip: sight-seeing. Although the reason we came all this way was Rushmore and Crazy Horse, there is a lot more to South Dakota, and the Black Hills. They are so pristine and so beautiful, I’m surprised it isn’t more crowded. But it’s quite remote, too. I could see living close to Cedar Rapids. All the advantages of civilization but you’re out in some of the most beautiful country in the US. Trust me; go see it.

It’s all about the wildlife to me. Carved mountains are interesting, sure, and we’ll get to that, but seeing wildlife up close is the best thing about travel anyplace. We don’t even go into cities except for airports, anymore. I was raised in New York City. You couldn’t make me live there if you put a gun to my head.

So, Custer State Park is famous for wildlife, among folks who are into it. And it’s contiguous with Wind Cave NP, which we’ll also get to. And anyway, bison just roam all over the place. The herds are “managed” which means they are kept at a size the grazing land of the parks will support, but they live pretty much independently, except for the yearly round-up and medical care.

Bison and other animals can’t read, or maybe they can, and just like to confound visitors. They like to pop up and poop in a parking area, or amble across the road while you fumble for your camera. Their favorite thing to do is show you their ass when you are trying to take pictures. They all do it, and it’s no coincidence.




So, even though the official Wildlife Loop is a particular 12 miles of road, you will see everything everywhere, and you will understand “where the buffalo [sic] roam, and the deer and the antelope play.” All they do is play. Why should they work? We did all we could to wipe them out in the 19th century, and I think they get a pass for as long as time lasts.

By the way, their proper name is bison bison. They are not “buffalo.” Buffalo are native to Asia and Africa, not North America. But, as usual, we have dumbed down reality for USAians, who resist education in many areas. So every ten feet you will find this sign: “Buffalo are dangerous! Do not approach!” Okay, I’ll stay right here in North America and not bother any buffalo, but excuse me while I stick a firecracker up this bison’s butt, so it’ll turn around and I can take a picture. Here is a bison product:



More on more wildlife next time. That barely scratches the surface of what we saw that day.

Bear Country

If I can ever get on-line again, you will hear about Bear Country, USA and the drive from Rapid City to Custer. One of the joys of travelling, along with bag drags and crazy, nasty people, has been the spottiness of WiFi availability. My computer and/or AOL may be part of the problem, too.

We were advised to go to Bear Country as far back as Glenn’s Tire in Clear Lake, where we had our headlight replaced. Very nice people!



So we headed there, after Wall. It was quite a short, and pretty, drive to Cedar Rapids, And Bear Country was right there on the road (along with the Cosmos, Reptile World and a place that sells huge busts of every president. Makes you grateful there’s no more room on Rushmore).

You drive through and see all the animals you hope to see in the Black Hills, just in case. The best part is the bears, which you wouldn’t want to meet outside your car anyway, and the mountain sheep/goats which are not usually visible.









The drive-through was a good deal, but at the end there’s a small zoo full of smaller animals and shrieking kids, so we skipped it, except for the adorable bear cubs, and this one big one, and drove on toward Custer.







We had a choice of two routes, and we chose 16A, which was a totally coincidental stroke of luck. It takes you in through the Iron Mountain road through Custer State Park. It’s all the things Joyce hates in a road: windy, narrow, slow. But spectacular, and not too much traffic, either, considering we were beginning the Memorial Day weekend. I guess everyone else went the other way that day, which is much faster. Here are some shots we took along that road.






Popped out the other end in Custer, which I guess wouldn’t exist except for Rushmore and Crazy Horse. The only chain restaurants are Subway and Pizza Hut, and we fell back on Subway frequently. We pulled into Super 8 and the fun began. Joyce went in to register, and reminded them about the dogs. They said we "should have told them” and paid for them, in advance. Really? How? Hotels.com doesn’t offer that option. They take pets. They don’t NEED any notice. Then they tried to put us on the second floor, and Joyce had to argue them down to the first floor. With three dogs, cages and gear for seven weeks, we are not climbing stairs! And no, there’s no elevator! So she asked where the luggage carts were, and they don’t have one! So major schlep by main force. On her way out, they reminded her the dogs can never, ever be left in the room. So how do we eat, or use the pool, or do laundry, or get the continental breakfast? Uhhhhh . . . okay, you can be around the hotel. Gee, thanks.

After a long ride and arguments Joyce went to Subway and got us sandwiches. They recommended we go across the street, and it was a cowpuncher dive. Several places that offered delivery don’t deliver until June. A lot of places allow smoking, also until June, when a new law takes effect.

And it will come as no surprise that the weather deteriorated overnight, and when we saw how awful it was the next day, we just went back to bed!